There is something unmistakable about the smell of wood smoke drifting through a neighborhood before most people have poured their first cup of coffee. In Northeast Portland, that scent has been part of the morning air since 2006. It rolls out of a wood-burning smoker on NE Killingsworth Street, where briskets are already hours into their slow transformation long before the lunch crowd lines up.
This is Podnah's BBQ, Portland’s original craft barbecue restaurant. And while the city has never been short on food trends, Podnah’s has never chased them. It has simply stayed committed to doing one thing exceptionally well: brisket and Texas BBQ the way it was meant to be made.
The story begins far from Oregon, in Waxahachie, Texas. The restaurant is named after Rodney’s grandfather, J.R. “Podnah” Muirhead. In Texas slang, “Podnah” means partner, and by all accounts, J.R. embodied that word completely. He was a butcher and a barbecue man, the kind of grandfather who let you into the world a little earlier than your parents might have preferred. He taught songs you probably should not have known, encouraged a bit of harmless mischief, and treated farm animals like family pets. He cooked without shortcuts and lived with personality.
Growing up around Sunday meals made from scratch shaped Rodney’s understanding of food long before he ever considered opening a restaurant. Watching briskets trim, hearing the crackle of fire, smelling meat hit smoke — those weren’t special occasions. They were part of life. That early exposure to hands-on cooking created a deep respect for craft and patience.
Rodney’s path eventually led him to culinary school in New York, where he trained in professional kitchens that operated at a very different pace. Fine dining sharpened technique and discipline. It taught structure, precision, and how restaurants truly function behind the scenes. But even as he worked in polished environments, the pull of Texas barbecue never left.
In 2006, he brought that heritage to Portland.
At the time, the Pacific Northwest did not have a deeply established Texas-style barbecue scene. Smoking meat all night over wood was not common practice here. Podnah’s helped change that. From the beginning, the commitment was clear: an all-wood-burning smoker fired up at 5 a.m. every morning. No gas assist. No artificial flavor. No shortcuts to speed up the process.
That dedication is most obvious in the brisket.
Brisket is notoriously unforgiving. It requires precise trimming, consistent heat, proper airflow, and patience that cannot be rushed. At Podnah’s, the brisket develops a dark bark that signals hours of careful smoking. Inside, the meat stays tender, juicy, and deeply infused with smoke. You can order it by the quarter pound if you want to build your own experience, or choose it sliced or chopped on a toasted Dos Hermanos bun. It also anchors the popular two-meat plates, where brisket often shares the tray with ribs, pulled pork, or smoked chicken.
The pork spare ribs are another standout. They can be ordered by the rib, by the rack, or by the pound, depending on your appetite. Properly smoked ribs should have structure without toughness, pulling cleanly from the bone without falling apart prematurely. Podnah’s manages that balance beautifully, delivering ribs that feel honest and substantial.
Pulled pork offers a softer texture and rich smoke flavor, while the smoked hot links provide a snap and peppery heat that cuts through the richness of the meats. The smoked chicken, sold by the quarter bird, surprises many first-time visitors. Chicken can easily dry out in a smoker, but here it retains moisture and carries just enough smoke to complement the natural flavor.
Beyond meats by the quarter pound, the menu stretches into sandwiches, tacos, plates, salads, and appetizers that reflect both Texas roots and Portland sensibilities.
The sliced brisket and chopped brisket sandwiches come piled high on toasted buns. The pulled pork sandwich leans savory and satisfying. For those who want something lighter without sacrificing flavor, the Tex Cobb salad layers brisket over romaine with pico de gallo, blue cheese crumbles, green onions, egg, avocado, and bacon. It is a hearty salad that acknowledges you came for barbecue.
The Iceberg Wedge offers a classic option topped with croutons, pico, green onions, and your choice of blue cheese, 1000 island, or ranch dressing. It pairs well with smoked meat and provides a crisp counterpoint to the richness of brisket and ribs.
Appetizers and comfort dishes round out the experience. House-fried chips with red salsa or green chile queso make an easy starting point. Texas Red, a smoked brisket chili served with cornbread, speaks directly to the restaurant’s heritage. The Frito Pie, layered with Texas Red, cheese, onions, and Fritos, delivers a nostalgic, unapologetic dish that feels like it came straight from a Texas football game.
Tacos provide another nod to the region’s culinary influence. The smoked brisket taco is topped with pico de gallo. The smoked chicken taco comes dressed with salsa verde, cilantro, and onion. Pulled pork tacos include slaw for added crunch and contrast. Each taco keeps the focus squarely on the meat, allowing the smoke to remain the star.
The sides deserve equal attention. Potato salad, coleslaw, Texas Caviar made from black-eyed peas, BBQ beans, collard greens, green chile mac and cheese, cornbread, and side wedge salads ensure there is something for every preference. The green chile mac and cheese in particular brings a subtle kick that balances creamy richness with gentle heat. The collard greens lean traditional, and the cornbread provides a slightly sweet companion to smoky meats.
Families will appreciate the kids menu, which includes chicken and fries, kids mac and cheese with optional added meat, grilled cheese or quesadilla with fries, and a kids burger with fries. It makes Podnah’s approachable without diluting its identity.
Dessert keeps things classic. Pecan pie with Cool Whip offers a sweet, nutty finish, while banana pudding rounds out the meal with creamy familiarity.
The restaurant’s interior matches its philosophy. The space is simple and spacious, anchored by wood tables and a welcoming bar. There are no flashy distractions. Podnah’s does not accept reservations, reinforcing a casual, first-come atmosphere that feels authentic rather than curated. Happy hour from 3 to 5 p.m. brings in locals for happy hour food and cocktails that hold their own against the robust flavors of Texas BBQ.
Nightly specials after 5 p.m. give regulars a reason to return throughout the week. Tuesday features Gringo Tacos. Thursday brings fried chicken. Friday offers fried catfish. Saturday highlights smoked prime rib. Sunday rounds out the week with smoked fried chicken wings. These rotating features keep the menu dynamic while staying grounded in comfort and tradition.
More than fifteen years after opening, Podnah’s continues to fire up that wood smoker before sunrise. In a city known for innovation and constant reinvention, there is something grounding about a place that has chosen consistency instead. The restaurant honors a Texas grandfather’s legacy not through nostalgia alone, but through daily practice. Every brisket trimmed, every rack of ribs smoked, every side made from scratch reflects the influence of Sunday meals in Waxahachie and years spent refining the craft.
Portland may be thousands of miles from Texas, but for a few hours each day on NE Killingsworth Street, the scent of smoke and the taste of properly cooked brisket bridge that distance.
If you want to experience it for yourself, you will find Podnah’s BBQ at 1625 NE Killingsworth St, Portland, OR 97211. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Monday from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Happy hour runs from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. For more information and the full menu, visit podnahspit.com or call (503) 281-3700.
In a city filled with remarkable restaurants, Podnah’s stands apart not because it tries to impress, but because it simply does the work — one brisket, one fire, one day at a time.
