If you’re looking for the kind of fall road trip that feels like getting into Doc Browns DeLorean for your very own Back To The Future III, Oregon’s Elkhorn Scenic Byway is it. This 106-mile loop out of Baker City winds through old mining towns, alpine lakes, and fiery autumn forests, and it remains one of the state’s most underrated drives.

I first wrote about this route back in 2016, and returning to it now in 2025 feels like rediscovering an old friend. Some things haven’t changed, like the sweeping views, the ghost towns frozen in time, but there’s a new appreciation for how quiet and untouched this corner of Eastern Oregon still feels in a world that moves too fast.

Start Your Journey in Baker City, and Prepare to Head Back In Time

The byway starts in Baker City, a town that still wears its gold-rush past proudly. In the 19th century, Baker City flourished with the discovery of gold in Oregon. When other towns dried up after the initial rush, Baker City (old-timers still know it as simply "Baker") became a hub for logging, ranching, and the transcontinental railroad. Downtown is filled with historic brick buildings, and the Geiser Grand Hotel remains the crown jewel with its Victorian elegance. Stop for a coffee or a pastry before heading out, because you’ll definitely want the fuel.

Take Hwy. 7 south out of town.

BONUS HISTORICAL SIDE TRIP:

Pay your respects at the memorial to some of the hundreds of Chinese gold-rush era laborers who lived and died in the town of Baker at the Chinese Cemetery on the outskirts of the city.

Follow The Old Sumpter-Stage Highway Route

From here, the road follows the Powder River, meandering past ranchland and canyon walls, before climbing into the Elkhorn Mountains. In autumn, the Ponderosa pines and aspens shimmer in gold, making every turn feel like a postcard.

Phillips Lake makes the perfect mid-morning stop. It’s an easy place to stretch your legs, picnic, or simply watch the light shift across the water. If you’re traveling with kids (or just like a peaceful hike), the North Shore Trail is a gentle walk with big payoffs.

Stop in McEwen and take a left on Huckleberry Lane, where you'll find the decaying remnants of the Sumpter Dredge #1. The McEwen Depot & Museum is also the gateway to the Sumpter Valley Railroad, a delightful out-and-back train ride that both history-buffs and kids will love.

A little way out of McEwan, make a right on Hwy. 410

BONUS HISTORICAL SIDE TRIP:

From the intersection of Hwy. 7 and Hwy. 410, it's a 10-mile drive west down Hwy. 7 to the lovely little ghost town of Whitney.

The Ghost Town of Sumpter

Sumpter was, at one time, home to 16 saloons, three newspapers, and an opera house, until its business district was destroyed in a 1917 fire. Today, it's a sleepy little town with mining museums, inns, gift shops, and even a dispensary.

The Sumpter Valley State Heritage Area is open to visitors year-round, and includes a museum, visitor's center, and the massive dredge itself. This impressive piece of machinery operated 7 days a week and 24 hours a day, from 1935 until 1954. It’s estimated that the dredge dug up more than $4 million in gold during its lifetime.

Head Deeper Into the Elkhorns Where the World Only Grows More Remote

At this point, you can choose to head north out of Sumpter on Cracker Creek Rd. This route will be an out-and-back, as the road dead-ends not too far past our next ghost town, Bourne. Along the way, you'll pass by another decayed roadside dredge (Sumpter Gold Dredge #2) and eventually make your way to the town itself.

Little more than a scattering of cabins and weathered buildings today, Bourne once thrived on hard rock mining. The setting alone makes it worth the side trip: narrow roads trace the creek, and ruins emerge almost unexpectedly from the trees.

BONUS HISTORICAL SIDE TRIP:

Just up the road from Bourne are the remains of the E&E Stampmill, another crumbling landmark that hints at the industrial scale of early mining operations. Please remember when exploring sites like this that "KEEP OUT" signs really mean it. Old mines are highly dangerous and often on private property, so always remain responsible and aware.

From Sumpter, the road winds northwest toward Granite, perched in the mountains and often called Oregon’s most authentic ghost town. At one time, over 5,000 miners lived here; today, just a handful of residents remain. Wooden cabins lean against the wind, storefronts sag, and mining equipment rusts quietly in the brush.

Exploring Granite feels like stepping into a sepia-toned photograph, as this is one ghost town that hasn’t been overly polished for tourists. The population was only 30 as of 2020.

BONUS HISTORICAL SIDE TRIP:

From Granite, take Grant County Rd. 24 east to the old historic Fremont Powerhouse. It was once used to power the nearby Red Boy Mine, creating electricity from water supplied by Olive Lake.

See The Abandoned Remnants of Oregon's Gold Rush

Heading north out of Granite, two historical sites are worth a stop.

The first is the Ah Hee Diggings, sometimes called the “Chinese Walls". This site near Granite showcases the rock piles left by Chinese miners who painstakingly worked these claims in the 1860s.

Continue up the highway to the rusting remains of the once-booming Cougar Stampmill, half-swallowed by the forest. A stampmill was a mechanical device, powered by water, steam, or electricity, that crushed ore into smaller pieces using heavy stamps, or hammers, to liberate the gold contained within.

From Epic Hiking and Sparkling Lakes to Oregon's "Little Alps"

The ghost town leg of your journey may be over, but for outdoor enthusiasts and those wanting to soak in a little scenery, the road back to Baker hits all the checkmarks. Bonus: Anthony Lakes delivers alpine views that rival anywhere else in Oregon.

The North Fork John Day Trailhead is a 22.9-mile trail that follows the wild and scenic North Fork of the John Day River. This trail, once established by miners, is considered challenging and opens in late May each year. The trail can be rugged at times, but it offers great views of the river while leading you past old mining cabins and long piles of rock tailings in the area. Take a gold pan with you (and just maybe you'll find treasure on the river). We highly recommend reading about the history of this trail and what you may find along the way.

The Elkhorn Crest Trail is the highest in the Blue Mountains and was established as a National Recreation Trail in the late 1970s. From the traihead, you can take in sweeping views of Baker Valley, spy the Wallowas in the distance, and stunning views of the Blue Mountains. Craggy peaks, herds of elk, and six high mountain lakes are also popular sights along the way. This trail is considered difficult, and there is scarce drinking water available.

For a shorter, but no less beautiful hiking experience, we recommend the Van Patten Lake Trailhead, which is a 1.5-mile uphill hike that circles the lake itself.

Even if you aren't hiking, don't forget to pull over at Anthony Lakes Viewpoint for sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.

Coming Full Circle Back to Baker City

Once you make your way back down out of the mountains, stop by the Eastern Oregon Museum in Haines, then travel back down Highway 30 to Baker City. If your day of travel has you ravenous, the Haines Steak House is a great place to fill your belly.

In the 19th century, Baker City flourished with the discovery of gold in Oregon. When other towns dried up after the gold rush, Baker became a hub for logging, ranching, and the transcontinental railroad. It's also home to the 1889 Geiser Grand Hotel, which has been beautifully restored. The hotel is the iconic anchor of the revitalized downtown.

Best Practices for Exploring the Elkhorn Scenic Byway

--Tread lightly. Follow Leave No Trace principles to keep this landscape pristine for future explorers.

--Respect private property. Many ghost towns and ruins sit on or near private land. Stick to public areas and posted trails.

--Leave ruins as you find them. Don’t climb on fragile structures or remove artifacts. These remnants are part of Oregon’s history.

--Pack essentials. Food, water, and extra fuel are a must; services are few once you leave Baker City.

--Check road conditions. Weather can change quickly in the Elkhorns, and some side roads to ghost towns or ruins may be rough or seasonally closed.

--Bring a map. Cell service is spotty at best, and GPS can be unreliable in the mountains.

--Travel prepared. Layers for changing weather, a first-aid kit, and a spare tire can save your trip from being cut short.